Want better recalls from your dog? Read on!

Not only is a dog that won't recall annoying to the owners and handlers, but to other dogs and people too. It can cause behavioural issues if the dog that your dog is approaching at breakneck speed doesn't want your dog getting in his face. Your dog could get nailed! Your dog can become confused as to location while they merrily chase deer and squirrels, and risk becoming lost. While your dog is practising not recalling, you are reinforcing the behaviour by allowing them off lead if you know they have intermittent recall. Behaviour works, yes? Your dog is only doing what is reinforcing to him, if ignoring your cue is more reinforcing to him, he will carry on ignoring it! Sorry if that seems harsh but it’s the truth and trust me, my own dogs ain’t angels and neither am I, just keeping it real.

We, as responsible dog owners, have a duty of care to teach our dogs a recall, mainly because it's not intrinsic to them but also from a safety aspect. A dog who doesn't verbally recall off lead in a public place first time could in the eyes of the current UK dog law, be considered out of control and you may not be covered under your insurance should any damage to property occur. I don't know about you, but I view this a life skill; one that is invaluable on so many levels. We need to practice reinforcing successful recalls and applying a consequence if our dogs don't listen to us.

What should I do then Katie?

So we know dogs do what works for them at the time. We apply this knowledge to recall training. For me, personally, it's all about the pay, fun and the distractions. Get distractions in early by using play as a training session and pay big,

Cough up the good stuff for them, make it interesting. I love getting in sneaky recalls whenever the opportunity presents itself! Calling your dog to you from somewhere in the house, then running to the fridge and throwing them a sausage can help. So can playing games with family like puppy ping pong, throw away recalls, hide and seek, Premacking (giving them what they want in exchange for what you want to make the behaviour stronger, e.g.grandma’s rule eat your veg then you can have your ice cream) by sending them back to their distraction in return for a recall and keeping on a long line while they are learning the ropes. This prevents them rehearsing ignoring you, maintains control and prevents them going missing. Making their training fun makes it fun for you too and you are both more likely to enjoy it!

Puppy ping pong - fun game played as a team. Have a few friends and family stand in a loose circle around pup, a few feet apart for younger pups, bit further for older ones. Take random turns calling pup to you, if you call pup and he comes to you, you pay him, if he goes to someone who didn't call him, no pay. Keep it short and sweet the younger they are, longer for older pups. Enjoy!

Throw away recalls - Based on Jane Killion's Cheeseball Recalls. Call your pup from a short distance so they successfully return to you. Show them their paycheck when they get to you and throw it behind them for them to run after and eat. As they are start to return for more, use your recall cue again and just as they get to your feet throw their paycheck away again. Throw it in different directions for added fun. Be mindful of younger pups, we need to protect their growth plates. If bunch of them your pups prefers toys, use a toys instead and have a bunch of them ready to use to manipulate the novelty value.

I use a recall cue when they are already spontaneously returning to me, I even pay auto check ins (when they pay me attention without asking when out). Using a whistle can help build a solid recall, especially if they ignore your current cue; use the new cue (whistle), then old cue. Mark (use a clicker or other marker such as a 'YES' or thumbs up) a successful response and pay. I will often practise harness holds when they return too, to help reduce the likelihood they peg it off immediately after being paid, just in case you need to emergency recall.

Ren during her learning recall phase, you can see the long line attached to her harness, her training coat and her bally in her gob, having a blast!

Make it easy at first

I suggest working at a short distance initially, and work in distractions really early into the game such as household noises and smells, then outside in the garden and each time you make it harder for them, make the paycheck bigger and better the first time. If your dog being asked to come away from a notoriously difficult distraction and they are successful, then celebrate with a food and play party when they succeed and if appropriate, send them back to the distraction as a payoff too (Premack). Short distances first, with distractions, short duration between recalls and practice in various locations and times of day (proofing).

Then begin making the durations longer between recalls ensuring all the distractions have been added in before increasing distance a little bit. I suggest students make a list of known distractions and make a scale of their intensity, so maybe on scale of 1-10 with 1 being easy, your dog would find birds a 10 on the scale. So don't expect them to recall from birds until you've practised the lower level distractions and are getting continued success with them in a variety of places, then work birds into your plan. Once pup is successfully returning on cue each time, you can think about unclipping the long line. In the meantime, it's unfair to expect him to recall from distractions before you've put in the training.

Trouble shooting

If they ignore a recall cue, you may not have worked enough at that level of distraction and will need to get closer to your dog the next time you practice. Meanwhile, if they ignore you, go get them and calmly put them back on a short lead and coax them gently away from the area (applying a consequence), play a game of find it to reduce the frustration from the excitement, then play a few games with them or ask for a chain of behaviours you are certain they can get right, then try again the next day after practising at a lower distraction level AND on a long training lead attached to a harness (for physical safety and to avoid rehearsing ignoring you) and if he ignores you, walk your hands along the lead until you are next to him, then repeat the recall cue. Still throw him that party at your feet before releasing back out again.

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